by Emily Rinaman, Technical Services Manager
The Mad Hatter, a character from Lewis Carroll’s “Alice in Wonderland”, was inspired by the booming hat trade in his hometown of Stockport, England. The millinery business was a booming trade across the bond, too, in Tiffin.
The word millinery is inspired by the city of Milan, Italy, where the elaborate hat designs of the Victorian era were born.
While hats at that point had become a major fashion statement, hats were worn by everyone as part of the every-day wardrobe. Before automobiles, they served the function of protection one’s hair and face from dirt, wind, bugs and the sun.
The Willett Bowne & Co.’s Hat and Cap Store sold hats and umbrellas in tandem. Bowne additionally would re-design used hats to make them “like new” again.
Many seamstresses who owned shopfronts made hats as well. Any number of them could be found in Tiffin at one time or another. Even all the small villages throughout the county had at least one milliner, including Bettsville, Bloomville, Adrian, New Riegel, Republic, Risingsun, Melmore and Green Springs. With hats being a daily accessory, the demand was high.
The female millineries sold “fancy goods” with their hats, such as jewelry, notions, ribbons and other furnishings.
Ribbons were one way women often had their hats decorated. Martha Gibson, who wrote “Reminiscenes of the Early Days of Tiffin,” recalled that when her family moved to Ohio from Maryland, her mother wore a hat “trimmed with green satin ribbon with strings from the crown to draw it to the chin.” This style of hat of a trend during the middle 1800s when many pioneers were settling in the Midwest, but by the end of the 19th century were only worn by “middle-aged” women.
This is just one example of how hat styles, like clothes, changed with the seasons and one day a trend would be “in” and the next it would be “out.” For example, Miss Callie Shoup who had more than one millinery on Washington Street, would employ up to six extra hat trimmers during the Easter season and in the fall.
During the spring and summer women wore more airy and lightweight hats with veils over the face as natural sunscreen, which they switched out for heavier (and warmer) hats in the colder months that used velvet and felt.
An advertisement in an 1869 issue of Advertiser-Tribune announced, “the bonnet of the coming season is smaller with little trimming on the sides, no strings, and dressed in bright, flashy colors.”
The size and shape of the hats were often dictated by the size and shape of the hairstyles. Larger hairdos meant larger hats and vice versa.
Women in Seneca County would often “depend entirely upon Miss Heisser for the latest Parisian Styles,” states the 1891-1892 Historical and Business Review of Seneca County. Heisser Millinery and Fancy Goods at 64 E. Market St. carried hats, bonnets, ribbons, feathers, plumes and other trimmings.
Feathers and whole stuffed birds were the “in thing” for hats throughout the 1880s. With the upper class, the type of bird drove the cost of the hat—imported birds like ostrich and peacock were the most expensive.
Gibson also recalled one of her family members once looking “very becoming” in a gray felt hat dressed with gray ostrich plumes.
By the early 1900s when Gibson was married and wore a wedding hat “trimmed with a wreath of delicate white flowers,” floral accents had replaced aviary decorations on feminine hats.
“The popularly of large feathers and stuffed birds on the hats caused concern for the welfare and population of birds and many protective laws took effect,” notes the Vintage Dancer website. Only feathers that had naturally fallen from farm-raised ostriches could be used at this point.
Garden hats as hats trimmed with flowers were called, could have either dried or lace flowers along with twigs and leaves and were most often worn in the summer.
Men had their fair share of hat styles to choose from and be governed by as well.
One of the most well known male milliner in Seneca County was Charles Leiner, who began a hat business in 1852 with his son, Henry, joining him in business in 1890 and later, his grandson, Karl. Karl’s son, Charles, named after his great-grandfather, took over in 1950.
Earl Erastus Bowe, the grandson of the founder of Tiffin (Erastus Bowe), was head clerk of the business.
Works Cited:
Between the Eighties, Tiffin, Ohio 1880-1980. Seneca County Digital Library. https://ohiomemory.org/digital/collection/p15005coll27/id/65422
Gibson, Martha. Reminiscenes of Early Days of Tiffin. 1967. https://ohiomemory.org/digital/collection/p15005coll27/id/12997
Howe, Barbara. Building of the Week. Seneca County Digital Library. https://ohiomemory.org/digital/collection/p15005coll27/id/28064
Iannantuono, Dawn. History of 155 Frost Parkway. Seneca County Digital Library.
https://ohiomemory.org/digital/collection/p15005coll27/id/53274
Historical and Business Review of Seneca County, 1891-1892. Seneca County Digital Library. https://ohiomemory.org/digital/collection/p15005coll27/id/15697
History of Eden Township and Melmore. https://ohiomemory.org/digital/collection/p15005coll27/id/29665
Seneca County Digital Library, Tiffin City Directories.
https://www.ohiomemory.org/digital/collection/p15005coll27/search/searchterm/Directories/field/subjec/mode/exact/conn/and
Smith, Howard. The What, How and Who of It: an Ohio Community. 1997. Seneca County Digital Library. https://ohiomemory.org/digital/collection/p15005coll27/id/15879
Seneca County Museum Newsletter. Sept. 1998.
Terrell, Ellen. “Millinery as a Top Industry for Women.” April 5, 2023. Library of Congress blogs. https://blogs.loc.gov/inside_adams/2023/04/millinery-industry-for-women/
Vintage Dancer. “Edwardian Ladies’ Hats History 1900s-1910s.” https://vintagedancer.com/1900s/history-titanic-hats-edwardian-era/